The European textile sector is undergoing a significant transformation following the European Commission's 2022 EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles. This shift necessitates comprehensive changes in the design, production, and market placement of textile products within the EU. Recognizing the critical role of research and innovation in facilitating these changes, the European Partnership Textiles of the Future (referred to as "the Partnership") was announced in March 2024 and is expected to be formalized by the end of 2024. The Partnership's primary objective is to implement a Strategic Research and Innovation Agenda (SRIA) aligned with the sector's green and digital transition. This agenda addresses emerging regulatory demands and global market trends by leveraging new knowledge and key enabling technologies.
The central vision of the Partnership is to foster the development and demonstration of innovative technologies and business models that enable the competitive manufacturing of safe and sustainable textile products. These products, made from low-impact functional materials and through clean, digitally connected processes, will be produced in regional, circular, and fully traceable supply chains, ensuring quality jobs, industrial competitiveness, and responsible consumption in Europe.
Three main Priority Areas were identified in collaboration with several hundred experts across the European textile ecosystem:
Priority Area I: Sustainable Materials & Clean Processes: focuses on bio-based feedstock, sustainable fibers, resource-efficient processes, and end-of-life recycling.
Priority Area II: Digital Supply Chains & New Business Models: emphasizes digitalization, circular data management, and sustainable design.
Priority Area III: Advanced Manufacturing & High-Performance Textiles: covers smart manufacturing, digital networked manufacturing, and the development of safe, sustainable materials for technical applications.
The Partnership will launch calls for proposals under the Horizon Europe programme in 2025-2027, guided by the priorities outlined in the SRIA. These projects will involve industry players, with a focus on SMEs, research organizations, universities, and other ecosystem stakeholders. The goal is to ensure the rapid industrial deployment of developed solutions, with at least €60 million in public and private investment anticipated during the initial phase (2025-2027). This funding will be supplemented by additional investments for accelerated exploitation activities such as pilot testing and early market replication.
The ultimate aim of the Partnership is to enable the European textile sector to meet upcoming regulatory requirements for sustainability and circularity, while also remaining competitive in the global market and seizing growth opportunities in both existing and new markets.
The Role of Textiles for People, Planet, and the Economy
Textiles Are Everywhere:
Textiles, among the oldest materials known to humanity, have been used for a wide range of applications, from clothing and shelter to tools and transportation. The development of man-made fibers in the late 19th century and the rise of petrochemical-based fibers like polyester in the 20th century revolutionized the industry. Today, synthetic fibers dominate the global textile market with a 65% market share, while cotton holds 22%, and other natural fibers make up the remaining 13%. Global production of textile fibers stands at approximately 116 million tonnes annually, growing at an average rate of 2-3%. This growth is driven by population increases, rising consumption in emerging economies, and expanded use of textiles in technical markets. In contrast, textile consumption growth in the EU remains below the global average.
Textiles are used across various sectors, with slightly over half of textile fibers used for apparel, 20% for home and interior textiles, and around 30% for technical applications such as construction, automotive, and healthcare. The choice of fiber type depends on the required material properties and economic factors. Cotton, for example, is predominantly used for clothing and home textiles due to its softness and moisture absorption, while synthetic fibers are favoured for technical applications due to their durability and cost-effectiveness.
The Impact of Textile Production and Consumption:
The textile sector has a significant environmental and social impact, from the farming of natural fibers to the production, distribution, and disposal of textile products. The sector's greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions account for a considerable percentage of global emissions, with the majority stemming from energy-intensive wet processing steps like dyeing. In addition to energy use, textile production consumes large amounts of water and chemicals, which can lead to environmental degradation and health risks if not managed properly. The European Environment Agency (EEA) ranks the textile sector third in land and water use, highlighting its substantial environmental footprint.
The widespread distribution of textile production across regions with varying levels of political stability and regulatory enforcement exacerbates the industry's social and environmental challenges. Human rights violations, worker exploitation, and environmental harm are prevalent in regions with limited legislation or poor enforcement. Despite the benefits textiles provide—such as protection, self-expression, and comfort—their consumption also generates negative impacts. These include GHG emissions from laundering and ironing, microfibre pollution, and significant waste generation. The EU alone produces 11 million tonnes of post-consumer textile waste annually, with the majority incinerated or landfilled after its first use cycle. Globally, less than 1% of post-consumer textile waste is recycled back into fibers.
The European and Global Textile Industry:
The global textile industry is one of the largest economic sectors, providing jobs and income to millions worldwide. The production of clothing, home textiles, and footwear consumed in the EU alone employs approximately 13 million workers globally. The industry is highly globalized, with over 80% of clothing, home textiles, and footwear consumed in the EU imported from other regions, while the EU exports nearly 40% of its textile production, amounting to €64 billion in 2023. The EU textile industry is characterized by high labor productivity and a focus on premium fashion, technical textiles, and advanced manufacturing, which have contributed to its stable annual turnover of €170 billion over the past decade.
However, the industry faces challenges, including a decline in manufacturing employment and the need to maintain competitiveness in a global market. The EU's textile industry remains a strategic provider of jobs and economic income in many regions, with major production clusters in Italy, Germany, France, Spain, Portugal, Poland, and Romania. These clusters are essential for the (re-)emergence of regional supply chains that support on-demand manufacturing and end-of-life recycling.
Industry Transformation & Policy Context
Industry Transformation Challenges and Opportunities
The European textile ecosystem is undergoing multifaceted transformation driven by economic, technological, geopolitical, and societal shifts. Sustainability is the most pressing challenge, requiring businesses to reduce GHG emissions, resource consumption, pollution, and waste while maintaining economic viability. Small and micro-enterprises, which make up 98% of the textile and clothing businesses in Europe, face particular challenges in achieving impactful investment in sustainability.
Digitalization and AI are transforming all aspects of textile production and consumption, offering significant productivity gains but also posing risks related to cybersecurity, employee reskilling, and software implementation. The rise of new business models, such as servitization and circular economy principles, is changing the way economic value is created in the textile industry. These models offer opportunities to differentiate suppliers from price-based competition and to decouple economic growth from material consumption.
Policy and Regulation:
The regulatory landscape for the textile industry is undergoing significant change, particularly in the EU. Upcoming regulations will redefine how textile products are made, sold, and consumed in Europe. Key legislative initiatives include the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), which will mandate sustainability attributes for textile products, and the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD), which will require companies to monitor and address social and environmental risks across their supply chains.
The revision of the EU Waste Framework Directive (WFD) and the introduction of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes aim to address the textile sector's low level of recycling and high waste generation. The REACH regulation continues to regulate the use of chemicals in the textile industry, with an emphasis on developing safer alternatives and adhering to Safe-and-Sustainable-by-Design (SSbD) principles. Additionally, the European Commission's proposed Green Claims Directive seeks to prevent greenwashing by ensuring that sustainability claims are reliable, comparable, and verifiable.
Textiles of the Future Vision and Guiding Principles
Vision for 2030:
The Partnership envisions the development and demonstration of new technologies and innovative business models for the competitive manufacturing of safe and sustainable textile products in Europe. These products will be made from low-impact functional materials using clean, digitally connected processes within regional, circular, and fully traceable supply chains. The aim is to create quality jobs, enhance industrial competitiveness, and promote responsible consumption in Europe.
The Partnership's approach includes applied research and development across multiple domains, including low-impact functional materials, clean and efficient processes, digital technologies, and innovative business models. These technologies will first be applied in Europe by industrial innovators to ensure the EU remains at the forefront of textile product and process innovation. The focus on regional supply chains will strengthen local economies and reduce the carbon footprint associated with long-distance transportation. By creating sustainable products and value-adding services, the Partnership aims to meet emerging consumer demand for eco-friendly textiles.
The expected societal benefits include the creation of high-quality jobs, enhanced industrial competitiveness, and the promotion of sustainable consumption. By offering consumers products that are high-quality, environmentally friendly, and ethically produced, the Partnership seeks to transform the European textile industry into a global leader in sustainability and innovation.
