Italy is a country that consumes a lot of textiles: in 2018 the expenditure for the purchase of clothing in our country was 52.4 billion euros, consequently producing significant volumes of waste.
Nonetheless, recycling remains a segment of the textile value chain to be built almost from scratch.
For the textile supply chain, a provision is on the way that establishes the extended responsibility of the
producer, with the aim of promoting the sustainability of the products and the reduction of the impact on
the environment. The Minister of the Environment and Energy Security, in agreement with the Minister of
Enterprise and “Made in Italy”, has in fact prepared a draft decree which, in line with the “National Strategy for the Circular Economy”, introduces some important news for the supply chain of textile products for clothing, footwear, accessories, leather goods and home textiles. A consultation of the main stakeholders was launched on the text, which ended on March.
The extended liability regime provides that the producer takes charge of “the financing and organization of the collection, initiation and preparation for re-use, recycling and recovery of waste deriving from textile products”. The producer will be able to fulfill the obligations by setting up a management system “in collective or individual form”. The same manufacturer ensures suitable financial and organizational means to create a “wide-spread textile waste collection network throughout the country”, through management systems and in agreement with the local authorities, as well as “the development of selective harvesting to increase the quality of the textile fractions”. The payment of an “environmental contribution” “must not exceed the costs necessary to provide the waste management service efficiently and must encourage innovation oriented towards circular economy models”.
What is meant by Producer?
- Companies and Brands that produce finished products with their own line in Italy, without going through
- Companies and Brands that package finished products by commissioning the production to
subcontractors wherever they are established (Italy, EU or non-EU);
- Companies that import finished products into Italy, or a line produced abroad in the EU or outside the EU
(for example under license);
- Foreign companies that sell finished products only online, via the brand website or marketplace;
- Contractors who produce exclusively on behalf of third parties, or who under no circumstances affix their
name or trademark on the Products manufactured, are not subjects affected by the decree.
Which products are involved?
Clothing: (dresses, jackets, shirts, T-shirts, outerwear, knitwear, skirts, trousers, underwear, pajamas, work
clothes, uniforms, leather and imitation leather clothes, swimsuits, tracksuits and technical clothing.)
Footwear: (shoes, slippers, sandals, sports shoes, safety shoes)
Accessories: (ties, scarves, handkerchiefs, scarves, gloves, hats, socks, tights)
Leather goods and as like: (bags, suitcases, backpacks and trunks)
Home textiles: (bed, bath and kitchen linen, blankets, curtains and drapes, carpets)
Among the central objectives of the decree is the sustainability of the product, as well as “a design of the
same and their components aimed at reducing environmental impacts and the generation of waste”. For
this reason, the manufacturer is asked to develop, produce, market products “suitable for reuse and repair, containing recycled materials, technically durable and easily repairable”, internalizing “the principles and economic models based on circularity”.
As “eco-design” measures, the use of biocompatible textile fibers and natural materials, the elimination of dangerous components and substances also with reference to microplastics released into the environment, the reduction of quality defects that lead the consumer to get rid of them, the development and use of advanced technologies for sorting fibers from waste treatment and for recycling, as well as a “digital labeling” system that describes the characteristics and composition of the product.